Maison Veille to Rifugio Bonatti

This day was filled with rain, but it started out bright and sunny. Most of the descent down into the skiing town of Courmayeur was a gradual transition from sandy-dirt to solid dirt, and then finally paved roads.The surrounding hills, when they were visible through the dense forest, were covered in ski lifts and ski paths.

Most of the trail was in the woods, so it was very beautiful. Along the way there were small rock outcroppings that offered a humbling view of the valley below and beyond.

I passed an abandoned house on the hillside, deep within the trees and right below a ski lift. I love exploring and walking around ruins, so I took a peak inside. It looked like no one had lived here for quite some time. The stairs were falling apart, and several holes were in the roof of the second floor whose own floor had long since fallen apart.

Taking my time going down the trail due to the unstable nature of the material on the ground, and my poor knees, I suddenly realized that I never used the bathroom at the last place. My goal became immediately clear to me: find a public bathroom, or at the very least, a spot in the woods to squat.

Luckily, I wasn’t able to find a spot in the woods so I was forced to hurry into the city center and find a toilet. The bus station had one, and I was so relieved (both literally and figuratively).

The next order of business was to find snacks and an ATM because I needed to stock up on cash for the next few refuges.

Having acquired cash, and food, I went up the steep road to the town square that overlooked the mountains and the old village houses below. It was a most amazing sight. These folks sure do have it good here. I grabbed a slice of pizza (or something that looked like pizza) and did some window shopping.

All of the streets were filled with fancy and expensive restaurants, wine tasting rooms, and the most expensive outdoor clothing brands available. A lot of people later told me that there were some really great spas in town, but I wasn’t in the mood. I had places to be, things to do.

On the way up and out of town I ran into Barak and Neta from Israel (whom I had met in Bonhomme three days earlier). We walked together up until the first mountain ascent outside of Villair. This is when the rain started to move in. Up we went and down the rain came. But I did not mind, because I absolutely love hiking in the rain. It cools you off and provides a nice sound to walk in. I mean, who doesn’t like the sound of rain falling on leaves?

As usual, I had pulled ahead of everyone. When I get a destination in my mind, I push myself to reach it. At the top of the Aosta Valley I took a break at Rifugio Bertone and consumed my snacks that I had purchased 650 meters below. I waited for Barak and Neta to arrive (they had taken a break on a grassy area overlooking the city below and made coffee).

The rain had started to fall more aggressively now, and we decided that it wouldn’t be safe to try for the high pass today across the Col Sapin and Pas Entre-Deux-Sauts (2436m and 2524m, respectively).

We posed for pictures at the distance pedestal up here, and then started our mostly level and flat walk towards our last residence in Italy for the trip.

I was thankful for the flat ground, because the rain was turning everything into mud, and I had a hard enough time staying upright, even with the sticks. We had to cross rivers, and scramble up slippery waterfall sides in order to continue on the trail.

Some of them required intense negotiating skills on my part. Eventually all of the obstacles would let me cross over and continue.

Along the way we passed by some ruins, and, of course, I had to stop and check them out. I wonder about who might have lived in them, and how old they could be.

We also passed by an old cattle house that still smelled of fresh poop. Lovely. After going around it, I realized that the trail actually went above it and I had taken a self-created detour.

One final river to cross (on a bridge this time at least), a short bend around the side of hill, and a brief 50 meter steep hike and we had arrived at our destination.

Tonight would also be my second cold shower. It started off hot, but not even 30 seconds in and it turned ice cold. They had warned me that this would happen, because arriving later in the day means there is less hot water to go around. I should have soaped up first before starting the flow of water. You live and learn.

Some of the folks who I had met back in Les Houches were staying here, and we were able to reconnect over dinner, along with some new faces. The clouds hung around tonight, covering the mountains. No stars this evening.